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Dress

Dress

Dress

1863-5

Silk trimmed with lace

A simple one piece day dress of plain, finely ribbed silk with the minimum of trimming demonstrates the characteristic features of the mid 1860s. Comfortably fitting curved sleeves are set low into sloping shoulders forming a continuous line. The low armholes are emphasised by a scalloped band, edged in narrow black lace, running up each side of the front and around the back of the armhole seam. The bodice is lined in stout cotton and sewn with a stronger thread and stitch than those of the skirt in order to take greater strain. Its buttons were originally covered in an orange and black pattern, now mostly worn away, and would have been easily removable as their looped backs are held in place by a vertical cord. The great width of the unlined skirt is accommodated into the waist by means of deep pleats and cartridge pleating at the centre back. Flared seams towards the back help to achieve the more sweeping line of the back that can be seen in Additional Images, and the hem is protected by a braid edging and a broad inner band of alpaca. Pairs of tapes attached to the seams enabled the skirt to be shortened for practical purposes (see Related Item). A separate belt draws attention to the up to date straight waistline, its centre back rosette prefiguring later emphasis upon that area.

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